Candi’s Guide to the Ultimate Montana Summer Road Trip

As a tried-and-true Montana girl, I have the privilege of knowing our state pretty well. I spent my early childhood on a ranch between Browning and Cut Bank, moved to Whitefish in the early '90s, and spent most of my youth there. In high school I moved to Missoula, and after about 5 years moved to Great Falls. After another 5-year stint in Whitefish and a short adventure in Hawaii, my husband and I made our way back to Great Falls to finally settle. I pride myself on knowing the state well and taking advantage of all it has to offer! The gates of the keeping are being opened, and here is my Ultimate Montana Summer Road Trip Guide.*

One thing you might not know about Montana is that the "East Side" (basically over the continental divide) and "West Side" are pretty diverse, both environmentally and culturally. I highly recommend making sure you see a little bit of both!

Where to Start

Ok, this entire road trip is pretty epic. However, I imagine you might just do half or a quarter of it. If it was me, I would not want to miss Great Falls (obviously Farmer's Daughter) or the East Side of Glacier. But hitting Whitefish or Missoula is the best way to get the entire vibe of the state. Flying into Bozeman or Missoula is often a bit cheaper, so that may be a factor!

A Few Things to Know

In 2020, Montana became a refuge for the rich. 🤑 Billionaires buying out the millionaires type of stuff. We are now the most expensive state to live in (not joking). Bozeman and Whitefish/Flathead Valley are getting hit the hardest, which has made some working-class locals a bit bitter. Unless you're being an asshole at 2 AM at a local honky-tonk, you don't have anything to worry about. Montana culture is one of being friendly and helping your neighbors as much as it is minding your own business. Don't be a snob and you'll be just fine.

Prices - Montana hotels can be expensive. Depending on your budget, Airbnbs or Hipcamp might be the way to go. See above. ☝🏽

You're in bear country! If you're enjoying our amazing outdoor spaces, make sure to follow bear safety protocol: don't hike alone, and bring your bear spray. Save those meat snacks for the car.

Bozeman/Livingston Area

While the authenticity of Bozeman actually being "Montana" anymore is often in question, I love Bozeman for what it is. For me, it's a trip to the big city. Good food and fun shopping! Close to Big Sky if you want to be extra boujee, and Livingston is one of my favorite towns in MT.

Rest Your Head

Kimpton Armory Downtown - My go-to place in Bozeman to stay. Expensive? Yes. However, my trips to Bozeman are always to have a nice quick getaway in the "city" for a night. I like to be close to shopping and restaurants. I also love the massive rooftop hot tub and lounge.

The Lark Bozeman - Cutie little hotel with fun vibes.

The Murray in Livingston - If you are coming to Montana for the first time, I honestly recommend skipping Bozeman altogether and just heading to Livingston. The Murray has that western haunted eclectic energy.

Grub

Hooked Sushi - Again, your lil Great Falls girl is coming to Bozeman for things I can't get in the G-Funk. Sushi being one of them. Hooked is our go-to spot whenever we are in town.

Hummingbird Kitchen - If you can coordinate your trip with an elusive reservation to Hummingbird Kitchen, your trip will already be a 10/10. Pop-up dinners planned by Chef Linda — you will be treated to the most authentic Chinese food you may have ever had.

Campione - I haven't had the chance to eat here, but it's on my Montana bucket list. I have heard nothing but amazing things. This is also in Livingston!

Jam! - Our fav breakfast spot downtown Bozeman! This place gets busy, so go early.

Side Quest

Chico Hot Springs - If you have enough time to spend a night here, I highly recommend it. The restaurant and spa are both amazing, but even just soaking is great. Don't forget to order a Caesar (like a Bloody Mary but better — just ask a Canadian). You can also take this side quest all the way to Yellowstone on Highway 89.

Lewis and Clark Caverns and then La Hood Steakhouse - A personal favorite side quest of mine! Lewis and Clark Caverns if you love bats like me, and then on to one of the best honky-tonks of all time!

Culture Stop

Museum of the Rockies - A must-stop if you have kids!

Craft Corner

Stix - A lovely yarn shop close to downtown Bozeman.

 

Bozeman to Great Falls

Onward and upward! From Bozeman, head to the G-Funk! There are two ways you can get there, and both have some great stops.

Via US-287 N and then I-15 N

This route brings you through Helena. At the Capital, you can visit the newly opened Montana Heritage Center. My other don't-miss stop in Helena is Golden Girls Antique Mall!

Now, if you or your man is into fishing, Craig, MT is where you want to probably go directly from Bozeman. The mecca of fishing in Montana, the Lower Missouri River is divine. You can find guides and Airbnbs with a quick Google search, but don't miss eating at Izaak's!

Via I-90 W, US-287 N, and I-15 N

We can call this the scenic route! From Livingston, head to White Sulphur, where you can have lunch downtown, stop by Red Ants Pants store (run by a badass lady!), and even take a soak in the hot springs. This route is through the Little Belt Mountains, and you can find lots of hiking trails!

Great Falls

Welcome to the G-Funk. Great Falls might not be on the top of everyone's Montana bucket list (unless you're a knitter, of course), but that's exactly why I love it here and call it home. This is one of those places that hasn't changed with the Yellowstone fantasy. We are down to earth, authentic, and by far the least pretentious community you will find. Five waterfalls along the Missouri River, Charlie Russell's loved land, and true Big Sky country. You will leave with at least one good story.

After living all over this state  and even taking a detour to Hawaii, Xander and I chose Great Falls on purpose. It's the kind of town where your neighbors wave, the sunsets feel like they were painted for you personally, and you can still afford to buy a house and chase a dream. It's not trying to be anything other than itself, which is rare these days. And yes, this is also where you'll find Farmer's Daughter Fibers,  our brick-and-mortar shop and dye studio is at 320 Central Ave, right downtown. We built Farmer’s Daughter as a ‘destination’ Yarn Shop. Without our summer visitors, our Brick and Mortar could not exist. Seeing you come out of your way on your family vacation or summer road trip is truly the highlight of our year!

The Falls Themselves

Since the city is literally named after them, you might as well go see them. The Missouri drops over 600 feet across a 10-mile stretch through five separate falls. Here's how I'd prioritize:

• Ryan Dam / Great Falls The big one. Drive about 15 minutes north of town, cross the swaying suspension bridge to Ryan Island Park, and have yourself a moment. Best in spring when the water is roaring. Open Mother's Day through Labor Day.

• Rainbow Falls Overlook Easy stop along Giant Springs Road with great interpretive panels.

• Black Eagle Falls The closest one to downtown, viewable from Black Eagle Memorial Island.

• Giant Springs State Park Not a fall, but one of the largest freshwater springs in the country sits right next door, and the Roe River (briefly the world's shortest river) runs through it. Easy walking, picnic spots, and a trout hatchery.

Rest Your Head

Please be mindful that not all Great Falls hotels are created equal; we recommend staying at a medium to higher-range hotel.

Hotel Arvon - Sweet little historic hotel with lots of character.

The Gibson - Small hotel downtown that has lots of heart and hospitality!

SpringHill Suites Marriott - Nice hotel right on the river.

Grub

The Boardroom -  Highly recommend the Boardroom Bagel! Nice snacks, drinks, and to-go salads.

Electric City Coffee - Great place for breakfast, lunch, or coffee… and RIGHT across the street from FDF.

Fire Pizza - Yummy wood-fired pizzas and great salads!

Fifth and Wine - Where I go when I want a nice elevated meal!

Borries - An iconic Great Falls supper club. It's hella nostalgic and has the best Montana-raised steaks in town.

Magpie - Super fun patio, great drinks, and a fantastic vibe.

The Sip 'n Dip -  If you know, you know. The most famous tiki bar in the West. Inside the O'Haire Motor Inn since 1962, with mermaids that swim behind a glass wall five nights a week and a Fishbowl cocktail that holds something like ten shots. The legendary Piano Pat played here for nearly 60 years until she passed in 2021, and her presence still lives in the wallpaper. 

Move Your Oosie

Barre 3, Thrive, Habit, and Artful Motion are all my favorite places to get a workout in!

River's Edge Trail -  Over 60 miles of trails,  see the beauty of the Missouri! My favorite section is the Caboose on down! If you go off the paved trail, watch for rattlesnakes during the hot parts of the day.

Culture Stop

C.M. Russell Museum -  An icon of Great Falls. We love Charlie. He spent his life painting the West before it disappeared, and his original home and log cabin studio sit right next to the museum — you can walk through both. Even if you think you don't care about western art, you'll leave caring about Charlie.

Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center -  Perched on a bluff overlooking the Missouri. The two-story diorama of the portage around the falls is genuinely impressive, and the views from the back deck don't hurt either.

Paris Gibson Square Museum of Art - A historic schoolhouse turned contemporary art museum. Worth a wander.

First People's Buffalo Jump State Park -  Don't miss this one! Great gift shop and a sweet hike up to the top! One of the largest buffalo jumps in North America. Watch for rattlesnakes on this one too.

Side Quest

Fort Benton and the Grand Union -  If you want to experience true small-town Montana, Fort Benton is your place! The Grand Union has amazing food, great service, and is in the heart of this sweet town. Only 40 minutes from Great Falls.

Sluice Boxes State Park - About an hour south, this is a stunning limestone canyon hike along Belt Creek. A true Montana hidden gem.

Square Butte -  Drive an hour east and you'll see this iconic flat-topped butte rising out of the prairie. It's on every Charlie Russell painting for a reason.

Great Falls to Glacier National Park

The quickest way to get to GNP from Great Falls is to take I-15 N and then turn off at US-89 N. The scenic route is taking I-15 to Sun River and then heading to US-89 N from there. This will take you along the Front for some beautiful views. Stop by Big Sky Deli for an amazing sandwich, and make sure to stop in Dupuyer at Beaver Slide Dry Goods for some Montana yarns! The other crafty stop to make is Faught's Blackfeet Trading Post for bead heaven!

 

Glacier National Park

Our Glacier National Park stop is going to focus only on the East Side of the park. On this side of the park, you will find fewer tourists, more hiking, and just in general better vibes… in my opinion. When I am doing anything within the park boundaries, I always start early. 7 AM is the latest I am on the road in order to get a good (any) parking spot. Please read into the park's vehicle reservations and shuttle system, as it has changed again this year. Another note: there are some places to eat, but it is limited. If you have food allergies, make sure to bring a backup!

Rest Your Head

Divide Creek Campground - Slightly biased opinion, but this truly is the best place to stay in the Saint Mary area. Down to earth — Matt, Vern, and Keaton will take great care of you while letting you also do your thing. Book a cabin early or plan on bringing a tent! And don't miss sunset at the river.

Airbnb - Some girlfriends and I found an amazing spot in East Glacier last fall. Highly recommend looking at this option. Food can be hard to find in these areas, so having your own kitchen is nice.

Move Your Oosie

AllTrails is your friend here - you can find a hike that is perfect for you. From challenging to easy, you'll have a Rocky Mountain high before you know it. Many Glacier is an absolute must! And because I am your Montana mom, another reminder that you are in bear country. Please stay bear-aware and bring your bear spray.

Grub

Serrano's in East Glacier - After a long day of hiking, this is a great place to get a lil marg!

Whistle Stop Cafe - Not confirmed if this place is still in business, but if so, don't sleep on the stuffed huckleberry French toast!

Kyiyo Mercantile -  Miles from my old stomping grounds, the Kyiyo Mercantile is a delightful addition to this area. Huckleberry bear claws and fried chicken?! Can't ask for much else.

Rising Sun Pizza - Great place for wings, pizza, and a cold beer!

Two Sisters -  Your local Bigfoot and aliens fav stop! Huckleberry cheesecake is 10/10!

 

Glacier to Flathead Valley

The best way from the East Side of Glacier to the West Side is Going-to-the-Sun Road. Again, I recommend a super early wake-up call and heading over around 7 AM. The road isn't as busy and the light is chef's kiss. On the west side of GNP, you can stop by Lake McDonald, hike some trails, and just enjoy the amazing fresh smells this side brings. Apgar is one of my fav campgrounds!

Flathead Valley

Whitefish is truly a magical place. While it has changed A LOT over the years, don't let my nostalgia for the past damper the fact that it's still a fun place to visit. Tons to do, great food, and beautiful people. Kalispell is a bit more residential, so if you're on vaca, I would stick to Whitefish, Columbia Falls, Bigfork, Somers, or anywhere on Flathead Lake. Because Whitefish will always be one of my many homes, I am going to suggest recommendations mostly around there.

Rest Your Head

Ok - vague, but honestly you can stay just about anywhere. Splurge and stay at The Lodge at Whitefish Lake, camp at Whitefish State Park, The Pine Lodge, an Airbnb, or a condo on Big Mountain. Columbia Falls may offer some less expensive options depending on the time of year.

Grub

The Bulldog -  Icon of Whitefish. I grew up in this bar. Bathrooms? 10/10. Most go for the burgers, but I never miss a medium-spice chicken strip basket with chive fries. Don't forget to ask for ranch!

Tupelo Grille - For a nice dinner out, hit up Tupelo!

The Buffalo - Do not miss breakfast at The Buffalo. Also, follow their social media because, one, they keep it real, and two, you always have a chance to duck the rope on a busy weekend if you can answer their question!

Bonsai -  Best beer garden in town! Great food and staff as well. You can spend a lot of time knitting here!

Things to Do

Whitefish Mountain Resort -  Hike up the mountain picking huckleberries, try out the alpine slides or zip lines, or maybe just have a picnic at the top after a chairlift ride! The views span to Flathead Lake, Glacier, and Canada!

Whitefish Lake -  Lay out and knit at City Beach or Les Mason!

Downtown Whitefish - Shop The Toggery, have ice cream at Sweet Peaks, paint pottery at Stumptown Studios, the best drinks at Spotted Bear Spirits, or coffee at Montana Coffee Traders. The downtown is so delightful!

Side Quest

The valley is FULL of side quests. Head to Canada for the day, hit up Tally Lake, or take a drive to Polebridge! You can easily find yourself off the beaten path.

Craft Corners

Old Sun Knits -  Delightful yarn shop in Whitefish. You can find Farmer's Daughter and some great local yarns!

Polka Dot Sheep Yarns - My first LYS! They dye up some beautiful colors.

 

Flathead to Missoula

One of my favorite drives in the world. Make sure to open your window to enjoy the Flathead Lake air! I recommend stopping by Three Chiefs Culture Center and taking a side quest to The Garden of One Thousand Buddhas.

 

Missoula

Missoula is such a gem. Friendly people, great concerts, some amazing food spots, and home of the Clark Fork River. I have such a special place in my heart for Zoo Town — we know you will understand after spending some time there.

Rest Your Head

I recommend staying close to downtown just because walking around downtown, Caras Park, and the Kim Williams Trail is a highlight of Missoula for me.

The Wren - Voted #2 Best Hotel in the Southwest & West Region in the 2025 Condé Nast Traveler Readers' Choice Awards! This is a great place to stay downtown.

Residence Inn by Marriott -  Another overly priced hotel I like to stay at. What can I say, I am a creature of habit.

Grub

Walk around any corner in Missoula and you can find a great place to eat! Here are just a few of my favs.

The Bridge Pizza - Whether you are grabbing a quick slice of 'za or need to pick up an entire pie, The Bridge is always tasty! The salads are really great too!

The Notorious P.I.G. - BBQ can be challenging to find in the Northwest, but this place does it right!

The Camino - I almost never miss booking a dinner here when I am in town. Margs? 10/10!

La Petite - Imagine 19-year-old Candice: it's the early 2000s, we're smoking Parliament Lights, we have sundresses on, and we're drinking cappuccino after cappuccino at our favorite neighborhood coffee shop. The only thing that would have made this better is if the neighborhood yarn shop didn't snub me out of the store. Everything at La Petite is amazing.

The Keep - For a nice dinner out and a beautiful way to see the city!

Move Your Oosie

Kim Williams Trail - A beautiful place to run, walk, or bike in the heart of the city.

Hike the "M" -  A trek of switchbacks. Hiking the M is something everyone has to do at least once.

Hiking in General - There are a lot of trails all around the vicinity of Missoula. Here is a great guide!

Craft Corners

Confident Stitch -  A sweet little fabric shop in downtown Missoula! They have great quilting and garment fabrics!

Bathing Beauties Beads - I could spend HOURS in this shop. So many gorgeous beads!

 

Missoula to Great Falls

The last leg of our adventure! Missoula to Great Falls is another beautiful drive, and every time I come off Rogers Pass and hit the Prime Beef Country sign, I feel like I can breathe again. This is when you can truly understand what they mean by Big Sky Country. On this stretch of the road, you can find side quests of fishing, hiking, and swimming in the rivers. I am usually bombing through to get where I need to go, but I love a stop at the Sculpture in the Wild park in Lincoln. This is a great halfway point to use the bathroom and stretch your legs!

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* These suggestions are mostly based on experience; however, things do change, and I take no personal responsibility if it does not live up to your expectations.