For The Love(ish) of Swatchin'

Swatching can often be viewed as the bane of a knitters existence. Because listen, we just want to get into the good stuff. Today we are going to chat about why we swatch, how to swatch and count stitches for gauge and somewhere in the middle how to maybe love it a little more.

Gauge

There are so many factors that effect each knitters gauge. The yarn weight and fiber, needle size and type, your method of tensioning, and the pattern texture all can change your gauge! Gauge can effect the size of your finished garment as well as the amount of yarn that you need to finish your project.

When choosing how many stitches to cast on for creating a gauge swatch, we like to multiple the number of stitches the pattern calls for every 4 inches and multiple that by 1.5. So if your pattern calls for 18 sts / 4’’ you are going to cast on 27 stitches. This allows you to have enough room to get a proper 4’’ gauge.

The other important thing to keep in mind is following your patterns directions on the method they tell you the gauge is in. If it says that the gauge is in the round, you should swatch in the round. Most knitters tend to purl at a much looser tension than knitting, so your gauge won’t be entirely accurate. Same goes with the texture and colorwork.

One of my time saving tips on swatching is to create 2 swatches in 1. I'll start with the recommended needle size for about 4 inches, then purling a row to create a 'divider' of sorts. Then switch to a needle size either larger or smaller depending on how I like the fabric. This saves time and I already have some comparison to go off of.

Once you’ve made your swatch, it’s important to understand how to read it correctly.

1. We like to start by measuring your gauge of your unblocked swatch, this way you can be aware of just how much your fiber is going to grow
2. Block your swatch just how you plan on blocking your sweater; either steam block or wet block.
3. Allow your swatch to fully dry before you measure your gauge.
4. I like to use a needle tip or tapestry needle to count my stitches

Now that you have gotten your gauge you can compare it to your pattern and see where you are landing.

If you have more stitches per inch you need to go up a needle size

If you have less stitches per inch you need to go down a needle size

What is important to keep in mind, and something I find is more important than getting the correct gauge is making sure I love my fabric. I will often adjust my sizing on a pattern before changing my needles.

You picked your pattern, you have the yarn and now you are ready to dive in head first, right? We actually like to do more of a slow wade in the water for our sweater projects. You might think you made all the perfect choices for your project but color and fiber content can look different knit up vs. in the skein.

While swatching is most commonly used for gauge purposes, there are plenty of other benefits to make you fall in love with swatching.

Color

Swatching is the perfect time to test out your color theory before starting a whole garment. This can mean testing out color contrast, fades, and even marling to make sure everything looks just as good as you had hoped it would in the skein. Think of swatching as not a chore but dating your yarn before you marry it - you need to make sure it fits before committing to a whole sweater.

While doing colorwork, you can find out if your colors have enough contrast for the motif you are working.

If you are marling two yarns together, this is a great time to make sure your colors match well enough to see if you like the look

With variegated or color changing yarns, you can verify that it looks good in your finished texture.

Fiber

On the topic of dating your yarn, swatching is the perfect opportunity to test out your yarn. This is especially useful if you are using a new-to-you fiber or yarn.

Obviously different breeds of sheep, alpaca, goat or rabbit are going to behave differently. Especially if they are blended with plant fibers. Gauge is a great way to see how much drape you will get from a yarn.

If you have any sensitivity to wool you can make a small swatch and pin it to the inside of your shirt. This gives you as close as possible to a wear test without knitting a whole garment. Some fibers that I may not have trusted have cleared this test and became my favorite sweaters.

Leftover Swatch Projects

For many people, swatching can feel hard because it feels like you aren’t knitting to make something. As makers, we hate to feel like even half an hour of work is going to waste. Luckily swatches don’t have to die in some random drawer once your garment is done. Here are a few ideas of what you can do with those leftover swatches

Coasters - here at FDF we love lighting candles around the shop. Swatches make the perfect large coasters to protect our desks from the heat. They also make good mug coasters too!

Patchwork pillow covers - Once you’ve amassed a few swatches, you can easily sew them together to create interesting combinations. All you need to do is lay out the swatches you have like a puzzle to the size of your pillow and sew.

Wall Decor - Taking a cork board and filling it with Swatches is a great way to show off your handiwork and draw back to that inspo again and again.

Knitting Journal - Keep your swatches tucked away in your knitting journal to keep track of your progress. If you fall in love with a yarn you can skip the swatching the next time! Just don’t forget to label what size needle you used.